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Dresden Plate 1930's Quilt with Scalloped Edge

7/29/2022

2 Comments

 
This beauty was overall in great condition. The edge had some loose woven inserts that had to be replaced, but this project was really worth the effort. Staples stabilizer was applied around the entire border. Minimal center quilting and continuous curve border provide an inexpensive finish. Binding is Moda's Green Apple Bella Solid.
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Fabric Dye Stain / Bleeding Removal Tips

11/13/2020

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You can imagine how concerned I was when I realized every maroon piece in each block of my multi-state virtual bee group quilt had bled onto the pristine white background fabric during washing! Since it was for me and I used scrap fabrics, I had not bothered to pre-wash before mailing fabric bundles to our group.

The t-shirt quilt images are from a customer who also didn't prewash and used an Aggie maroon backing fabric which bled onto the front white and yellow t-shirts.

The solution: Clorox All Fabric Stain Remover and Color Brightener.  I have a top load washer, and I fill it with water and pour in about 2 capfuls of Clorox All Fabric Stain Remover (I know it's much more than the directions say to use). Then I allow the quilt to soak at least over night (longer if I don't see the desired results). To date, this product has never failed to work wonders for me.

Foxtail's customer was also happy to see there was a remedy for her daughter-in-law's new t-shirt quilt, which she only soaked for about 4 hours! 

Of course with all that product in the wash, you'll want to give it a thorough rinsing!

I have used Shout Color Catchers when I do mix fabrics and pre-wash, but Clorox for Colors is my go to remedy for quilts that are finished and have fabrics that bled! 

I'm sure it's a great idea to prewash with Retayne (color fixative that helps stabilize dyes) and Synthrapol (removes and suspends excess dye to prevent staining other fabrics), but failing that, at least there is an easy remedy that has proven to be very reliable.  

I've never used this technique on vintage quilts and no one can vouch for how older fabrics may hold up. Also, I soak clean quilts. My washer has an agitator, and I never turn it on agitate with quilts because, of course, they're extremely heavy when wet and the fabric can pull and/or tear.
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Vintage Quilt with bias binding

4/17/2019

1 Comment

 
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Friends from a local thrift shop called me when this beauty arrived. Someone dropped off their grandmother's unfinished quilt tops and blocks and I was blessed to get all of them!
Ruler work created unintended secondary circle designs that are wonderful in these blocks.
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True feed sack and vintage fabrics complete this work of art. Blocks with newspaper templates that arrived with this top date back to WWII and even have articles specifically discussing the war. Amazing finds!
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This is my first bias binding, and it was a lot easier than I thought it would be!
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Sluggish Featherweight 221 Remedy

1/7/2019

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If your Featherweight isn't sewing as fast as you'd like for it to, try setting the hand wheel to wind a bobbin (to prevent needle motion) and running your blow dryer over the motor while the machine runs. It loosens buildup and you'd be amazed at how well it works!
0 Comments

December 01st, 2018

12/1/2018

2 Comments

 

Quilter's Ironing Board - Easy DIY Instructions

After searching online for instructions on transitioning my regular ironing board into a quilter's ironing board, I decided to get the necessities and work with what I had, and I'm happy to say it turned out perfect.

Below are self-explanatory photos. The only instructions necessary are to make sure you cut the plywood sufficiently larger than the plastic top of your original plastic ironing board form and sufficiently smaller than your Bo Nash board cover -- you need to be able to staple the Bo Nash board cover to the bottom of the plywood.

It's a 2 person job. A jigsaw was used to round the corners of the plywood and a skilsaw was used to narrow the edges of the original plastic ironing board form.

My board measures 16.25" x 54.5", and having it has made ironing quilt fabric, backings and tops, immensely easier!

Supplies:
16.25" x 54.5" piece of 3/4" plywood.
Bo-Nash adhesive board cover (includes padding)
Screws (see photo)
Jigsaw (to round plywood corners)
Skilsaw (only if you have to shave edges of original plastic ironing board top)
Stapler (I used a household stapler and it worked fine)

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This is the size screw I used because it fit the holes in my ironing board's plastic base perfectly.
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If you buy this new cover, you won't have to cut down your original ironing board's plastic foundation: Ironslide 2000 Giant Cover29x65
6002 Bo Nash
Contact Foxtail if you'd like to order!
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This is the underside of my new ironing board. We cut the plastic slightly smaller than the plywood, and since I didn't buy the "Giant Cover" above, we had to use a skilsaw to make the plastic narrower. Not wanting to sand down the edges, I put duct tape over the rouge edge so fabric won't catch on it. Ugly? Maybe so, but incredibly functional, and I never look underneath it!
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Voila!
​I'm delighted with the finished product!

2 Comments

Painted Featherweight 221

11/25/2018

3 Comments

 
This machine arrived in such poor condition that I chose not to resale it without a total makeover. It was a lot of work to remove and replace all the parts to send it for paining, but in the end I was extremely happy with the outcome and the effort was worth it!


​Bobbin winder video
3 Comments

Refurbished Singer Treadle

10/21/2017

2 Comments

 
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Old neglected treadles are fairly easy to find and usually inexpensive. This project only took about a week to finish. I worked on it daily for several hours at a time, and the results were incredible! Well worth the time and products purchased to complete. 

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 Cabinet Supplies (in the order I used them):
Rubber gloves
Paint stripper if the cabinet has any paint on it
Scraper
Sand paper
Minwax Gel Stain
Boiled Linseed Oil applied after stain dried for luster

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​Treadle Supplies and Suggestions:


Clean outside with a water hose and mild soap, let dry and follow package instructions to apply both of these products:
Rust Converter and Primer (don't apply over any gold lettering)
Spray Paint - I used gloss black
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I preserved the gold "Singer" logo on the top center of the treadle by covering it with paper and a thin edge of painters tape around it to seal the area during spray painting.
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Sewing Machine Cleaning Supplies:

Use kerosene in a dropper bottle to thoroughly clean off all old lubricant and oil on inside areas and gears. I used a small bottle brush, some q-tips and old t-shirts. The older, gear-driven machines I've worked on are all similar, and it's easy to find detailed video instructions online, so I won't duplicate the details here.

I used very fine sand paper for slight rust on bobbin winder.

Remove old lubricant from motor ports and apply new lubricant to motor and gears and oil as manual instructs.
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This treadle had a working motor and, believe it or not, a light bulb that I'm sure is environmentally toxic but delightful in that it's probably circa 1940s or 50s and still works! What a find in the small farm town of Cheney, Kansas!
To get the best shine on the machine, I recommend the Zymol cleaner and wax kit pictured. Unfortunately when I worked on this treadle (it sold in less than 24 hours of being listed online!), I didn't know about these products, but I have since been using them on Featherweight machines.
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2 Comments

Featherweight Sewing - Motor Speed Tips

8/1/2017

1 Comment

 
Featherweight Machine Belt Area
Featherweight Sewing Machine Belt Area
If you're Featherweight motor has a slow start or sounds like it's working too hard to get going, don't assume something is wrong with the motor. Try loosening the motor screw and raising the motor until the belt is lose enough to grab and turn the hand wheel (but not so lose that it has trouble engaging). Beware of lower quality belts which can lead to frustrating issues with slipping.
1 Comment

Quilting Design Tips

7/21/2017

1 Comment

 
Choosing a design for an heirloom quilt can be daunting, but so rewarding!

This vintage quilt was made by my Great Grandma Peveto circa 1930. The design is "nosegay," It was pieced entirely by hand and the bouquets are all hand appliqued.
Backing Fabric Tip:
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I always aim for color and theme for backings and was able to get a perfectly modern day match with this pink print Moda fabric. The colors are precise and the raindrop print compliments the quilt top applique.
Tips for Choosing Designs:

Custom quilting designs call for a balance in density and use of appropriate thread colors.

Transparent film and dry erase markers allow designs to audition before the performance!

Switching between cream and pink threads allowed for a subtlety that doesn't overwhelm the applique.

Varying the quilting density and patterns in this project adds interest and creates an appealing flow.  
Photo of Vintage Quilt Custom Quilted
Custom Quilted Vintage Nosegay Quilt
Photo of longarm quilting sample by Foxtail Quilting
Custom quilting design by Foxtail Quilting


An unquilted block really allows one to see the transformation of this project from dull to dramatic!

Photo of partially quilted vintage quilt top
Partially quilted vintage quilt top
The photo below demonstrates the transitions between heavy and light quilting designs. A double layer of batting was used to enhance the applique and all seams were ditch quilted. Approximately 80 hours were invested in this queen size quilt project -- very much worth the time!
Photo of vintage custom quilting by Foxtail Quilting
Custom quilted vintage top with varying designs and thread colors
The back reminds me of ice cream cones and is its own work of art!
Photo of custom quilting by Foxtail QuiltingCustom quilting also turns backing into its own work of art!

1 Comment

Refurbished Singer Featherweight 221

4/3/2017

3 Comments

 
Singer Featherweight
After discovering an interest in vintage machines mostly inspired by members at my local quilt guild, I bought a couple of Featherweights in Wichita, Kansas and Dallas, Texas.
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These machines are sturdy and easy to clean and repair if you're willing to invest the time and some $$ for supplies.
During the process of refurbishing these Featherweights, it occurred to me that I was better off having done this on my own rather than in a group class mainly because I'm not sure how a group of people indoors can tolerate the concentrated odor of kerosene used for cleaning -- I took mine outside, used a fan and wore a mask. Like any hobby, it may take more effort, but it's less expensive to buy a DIY cleaning kit and watch videos online rather than buy a class only to discover that you also need to purchase parts and/or cleaning supplies.

​If you are interested in buying a refurbished Singer Featherweight, please click here  to check availability. If there are no active listings, inquiries regarding machines in progress may be sent to info@FoxtailQuilting.com.

Featherweight
Featherweight 221
Featherweight Accessories
3 Comments

    Author

    Tamara Bobbitt
    ​Foxtail Quilting

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Foxtail Quilting, 214 Woodland Dr., Trinity, Texas 75862
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  • Home
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